Austria · Styria NaturalBiodynamic
Sepp and Maria Muster and the Opok above Leutschach
Sepp and Maria Muster, Leutschach, Styria, Austria: Demeter vines on Opok, Gräfin and Erde on skins, and the Schmecke das Leben farms on a private wine tour.
Portraits of the winemakers behind my wine tours: natural and classic cellars in Armenia, Georgia, Italy, France, Czechia and Austria, and what to drink there.
Every story here is about a cellar I go back to, between Armenia and Austria. Some winemakers work naturally, some classically, several sit in between, and I do not rank them. What interests me is the choice: why Areni Noir goes into clay at 1,400 metres in Vayots Dzor, why a Barolo house keeps its casks large, why a farmer in South Moravia bottles his field blend before the fizz has finished.
I write these the way I tell them at the table: the village, the vessel, the dish, the person. Read them before a tour, or instead of one. Where natural and classic disagree, I have set out what I pour and why.
Austria · Styria NaturalBiodynamic
Sepp and Maria Muster, Leutschach, Styria, Austria: Demeter vines on Opok, Gräfin and Erde on skins, and the Schmecke das Leben farms on a private wine tour.
Austria · Burgenland Biodynamic
Claus Preisinger in Gols, Burgenland, Austria: a biodynamic winemaker of Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. Laurent in casks and amphorae above the Neusiedlersee.
Austria · Burgenland NaturalBiodynamic
Gut Oggau, Burgenland, Austria: Eduard Tscheppe and Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck's biodynamic wines with faces on the label, on my Neusiedlersee wine tour.
Austria · Kamptal Organic
Bründlmayer at Langenlois, Kamptal, Austria: Riesling from the Permian sandstone of the Heiligenstein, Lyra-trained vines and Sekt on my Austria wine tour.
Austria · Wachau Classic
F.X. Pichler, Oberloiben, Wachau, Austria: Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from the Kellerberg, Loibenberg and Steinertal, a 2009 cellar and a wine tour visit.
Austria · Wachau Biodynamic
Nikolaihof, Mautern, Wachau, Austria: biodynamic since 1971, Riesling aged for years in casks inside Roman walls, and a wine tour visit with sommelier Dante.
Czechia · Velké Pavlovice Natural
Richard Stávek in Němčičky, Velké Pavlovice, Czechia: a farmer-winemaker with 15 hectares, five of them vines, foot-trodden field blends, pet-nats and sheep.
Czechia · Velké Pavlovice Classic
Vinselekt Michlovský in Rakvice, Velké Pavlovice, Czechia: a grape breeder, professor and classic Moravian winemaker with 125 hectares and eight textbooks.
Czechia · Mikulov Classic
Sonberk at Popice, Mikulov, Czechia: Josef Pleskot's winery above the Nové Mlýny reservoirs, and its Pálava, Riesling and straw wine on my Moravia wine tour.
Czechia · Znojmo Biodynamic
Dobrá Vinice at Nový Šaldorf, Znojmo, Czechia: winemaker Petr Nejedlík farms 16 hectares biodynamically in Podyjí and ages Grüner Veltliner in Georgian qvevri.
Czechia · Velké Pavlovice Natural
Petr Koráb in Boleradice, Velké Pavlovice, Moravia: a 100-metre hillside cellar, pet-nats, skin-contact whites and sekt from a chef turned natural winemaker.
Czechia · Velké Pavlovice Natural
Milan Nestarec in Velké Bílovice, South Moravia, Czechia: a natural winemaker of pét-nat, field blends and unfiltered whites, 45 minutes from my door in Brno.
France · Loire Biodynamic
Domaine Huet, Vouvray, Loire, France: Chenin Blanc from sec to moelleux, three vineyards, biodynamic since 1988, tuffeau cellars and a wine tour visit.
France · Champagne Biodynamic
Larmandier-Bernier in Vertus, Champagne, France: biodynamic grower champagne from Côte des Blancs chalk, wild yeasts, oak foudres and dosage close to zero.
France · Beaujolais Classic
Château Thivin in Odenas, Beaujolais, France: the oldest estate on Mont Brouilly, Gamay on blue volcanic stone and a classic Côte de Brouilly built to age.
France · Beaujolais Natural
Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais, France: Gamay from the Côte du Py in a cold cellar, no added sulfur, and the winemakers behind it.
France · Jura Natural
Domaine Ganevat in Rotalier, Jura, France: Chardonnay from vines planted in 1902, rescued old grapes, and a winemaker who brought Burgundy discipline home.
France · Jura Biodynamic
Domaine Tissot in Montigny-lès-Arsures, Jura, France: biodynamic single-parcel Chardonnay, vin jaune and Trousseau in amphora from a winemaker mapping Arbois.
Italy · Etna Classic
Benanti in Viagrande on Etna, Italy: Pietra Marina Carricante from Milo, Nerello Mascalese Riservas, and the twin brothers who run the classic Etna reference.
Italy · Etna Natural
Frank Cornelissen on Etna's north slope, Sicily, Italy: old-vine Nerello Mascalese, no wood, buried terracotta, and a winemaker who revises his method yearly.
Italy · Piedmont Traditional
Roagna in Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy: Nebbiolo macerated 60 to 70 days under a submerged cap, five years in old botti, and a winemaker who never hurries.
Italy · Piedmont Classic
G.D. Vajra in Vergne, at the top of Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Bricco delle Viole Nebbiolo, Freisa and Riesling from a winemaker family under stained glass.
Italy · Friuli Natural
Radikon in Oslavia, Collio, Friuli, Italy: Ribolla Gialla months on its skins, years in old oak, half-litre bottles, and the winemaker son who keeps the pace.
Italy · Friuli Natural
Gravner in Oslavia, Friuli Collio, Italy: Ribolla Gialla six months on skins in Georgian qvevri, six years in botti, and a winemaker who lets time do the work.
Georgia · Imereti Natural
Baia's Wine, Obcha, Imereti, Georgia: Tsitska, Tsolikouri and Krakhuna from churi buried in a village yard, and the young winemaker who put Obcha on a label.
Georgia · Kakheti Classic
Schuchmann Wines in Kisiskhevi, Kakheti, Georgia: winemaker Giorgi Dakishvili makes Saperavi and Kisi in steel and oak, and as Vinoterra in qvevri, near Telavi.
Georgia · Kartli Classic
Château Mukhrani, Kartli, Georgia: a princely estate first bottled in 1878, revived in the 2000s, with Shavkapito and Goruli Mtsvane in steel and French oak.
Georgia · Imereti Natural
Nikoladzeebis Marani, Nakhshirghele, Imereti, Georgia: winemaker Ramaz Nikoladze's Tsitska from qvevri in a garden, a fifth of the skins, no added sulfur.
Georgia · Kartli Natural
Winemaker Iago Bitarishvili in Chardakhi, Kartli, Georgia: two hectares of Chinuri in qvevri, organic since 2005, one grape made with and without skins.
Georgia · Kakheti Natural
Pheasant's Tears in Sighnaghi, Kakheti, Georgia: a painter, a grower, amber Rkatsiteli from buried qvevri, a 117-grape field blend and a winemaker who sings.
Armenia · Vayots Dzor Traditional
Old Bridge Winery, Yeghegnadzor, Vayots Dzor, Armenia: a family winemaker since 1998, five hectares of Areni Noir and Voskehat, and a 13th-century bridge.
Armenia · Armavir Classic
Karas Wines, Armavir, Armenia: about 400 hectares of Syrah, Malbec and Kangun on the Ararat plain, and the classic estate I visit on my Armenia wine tour.
Armenia · Vayots Dzor Classic
Keush, Vayots Dzor, Armenia: traditional-method sparkling from Voskehat and Khatouni grown up to 1,750 metres near Khachik by winemaker Vahe Keushguerian.
Armenia · Aragatsotn Classic
Voskevaz Winery, Aragatsotn, Armenia: a state winery from 1932, a hall of working clay karas, and the Voskehat I pour on my Armenia wine tour from Yerevan.
Armenia · Vayots Dzor OrganicTraditional
Trinity Canyon Vineyards, Vayots Dzor, Armenia: organic Areni Noir at 1,300 metres, karas in the cellar, and a harvest afternoon on my Armenia wine tour.
Armenia · Vayots Dzor Traditional
Zorah Wines in Rind, Vayots Dzor, Armenia: Areni Noir aged in buried clay karas at 1,400 metres, and a winemaker who came back from Milan to make it.
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